Dash Cam Front and Rear, Dash Camera for Cars with 32G Card Super Night Vision, Car Dash Cam 1080P Dashboard Camera with G-Sensor, Parking Monitor, Loop Recording, Motion Detection Car Camera

I bought this unit with the OBDII hardwire kit mainly because I have a fairly large pickup (Ford F250) and wanted to be able to see what’s behind me in my blind spot while backing up (like my niece and her friends). I didn’t really think it through when I made this purchase and didn’t consider that I would have to run wire out of my cab to the rear bumper and thought that it might be beyond my skill level. However, with a little web research and discovery of how my truck is designed and it’s modifications, I was able to install this unit with relative ease. I decided to write a thorough review with step by step directions to hopefully make it easier for someone else.The first thing I did was to plug everything in and make sure the OBD power, front and rear cameras all worked, which they did. Then I stretched out the AV wire for the rearcamera out beside the bed of my pickup to see if it would reach the bumper... It wouldn't but a message to the seller was quickly answered by Emma and my extension wirewas on the way. I think I got it two days later (great customer service). With everything working correctly and the right length for my AV wire I set to work. I mounted the camera on the windshield behind my rear view (pictured). I ran both the power and AV wires under my headliner, along the windshield and down the front left pillar trim in the same direction. You are going to have to first pull up the kicker panel trim, the trim panel on the underside where your hood release and next to where your emergency break is located, at least on my truck (pictured and numbered in order to remove). There should be a channel along the pillar trim to run the wires. Be sure to run the wires in a manner where they will not get pinched when you put the trim pieces back in place. I did this and crimped my AV wire where my rear camera was not getting juice so I had to backtrack, cut the zip ties I had in place, pull the trim back out until I found the problem and corrected it. I had talked to a mechanic friend and asked him the best way to run the wire out of my cab and he told me of a trick to tape the wire to a coat hanger and fish it through next to the steering column and out of the cab (pictured and arrowed). However, upon inspection I found that my truck had previously had toggle switches installed professionally for fog lights, towing lights, and bed lights (pictured and arrowed). My truck had come from the manufacturer with a towing package. At any rate, I zip tied the excess wire from the power wire up under my dash to make it nice and tidy. I then ran the AV wire out of my cab and zip tied it to the throttle cable along the frame to the rear bumper of my truck. I had ordered a license plate mount for the rear camera from Amazon (pictured), mounted and connected it to the AV wire. I ran the red pigtail up the left rear of my truck to the reverse lamp. I opened the tailgate and removed the whole rear light assembly (two 13 mm bolts and it pops right out with ease). I found the positive wire to my reverse lamp, bared the wire with a pocket knife and spliced the pigtail directly into it. Popped the lamp back in, remounted the taillight assembly and zip tied the excess wire to a cable under the rear of my bumper. You will need to do a little research on the web to find out which wire is the positive for the reverse lamp for the year, make and model of your vehicle or just probe it with a test light to find the positive but I found out which one mine was relatively easy with a web search. Be sure to tape up the splice to insulate it really well with electrical tape.I consider myself to be moderately skilled at mechanical work and lightly skilled at electrical and I did this whole install in about 2-3 hours with tracking down the short in the AV wire and everything. I think anyone who is reasonably skilled at mechanical and electrical work can handle this install with relative ease.

Cámara de seguridad tal y como la foto muy segura para tu coche la recomiendo al 100

Background:I have never owned a dashcam or had any experience with one. I wanted to get one and didn't get to do my normal research before purchasing, but I added this one to my cart to remind me. Alexa notified me of an Amazon "deal" two days later, so I decided to jump on it for $40. I see now that it is still $40, so I'm not sure about the "deal." Either way, it was worth a try for $40.Review:The camera itself is very light with a plasticky feel to it. The installation mount seems to be of higher quality than the camera. Installation was pretty simple. I wanted to do a hard-wire install to keep the wiring clean, but this product (as I suspect many others) runs on 5v (the USB standard) rather than 12v (the auto standard.) The instructions are clear (assuming you can read and understand terribly written English, as is the case with many guides written by non-native English speakers) to only use the supplied cigarette lighter plug to power the device. It does have an internal battery, but the directions are also clear that this is ONLY to provide a short time to complete a recording after the power is turned off. You MUST connect this camera to power to use it. It does NOT run on a rechargeable battery.I contacted the seller to inquire about a hard-wire option. They were extremely helpful and responsive (next-day replies that clearly responded to my inquiry.) They offered me their hard-wire install cable for free. (Well, purchase on Amazon and then they will credit back the purchase price.) This product is still waiting to be shipped and has been delayed once already. I decided to do a quick installation using the cigarette lighter plug so that I could determine if I would keep this dashcam before my 30-day Amazon return window closed.My 12v cigarette lighter plug is hot only while the car is on, and I think this is the only way this device will work automatically (turn on and record when the car is started, and stop recording and shut down when the car is turned off.) If you use an always-on accessory port in your car, you may need to turn it on/off and start/stop recording manually, or plug and unplug it with each use. I chose to NOT connect the rear-facing camera at this time since I don't want to end up re-routing any wiring if I need to reposition the front camera if/when I permanently install it.When installing the rear-facing camera, you have a CHOICE:1. Connect a wire to your backup light wire, which will activate the display when in reverse (like a backup camera,) but will NOT record video when doing so -or-2. Do NOT connect the wire, which will record video while reversing, but will NOT display on the screen while backing upReviews commenting on this should be interpreted as though they are commenting on the product's design and not on the product's "failure," as this is clear in the instructions and in the Amazon description. (Again, you'll need to interpret this from broken English, but it should be clear.)(I also remember reading somewhere that if you use the rear-facing camera, you should set the resolution to 720 instead of 1080. The front cam is 1080, but the rear is only 720. I can't verify this setting now as I write this review.)There are also a few other settings recommendations in the manual to help avoid issues from arising:1. Motion detection - keep this off2. Shock/G sensor - keep this off to avoid auto-locking files, which will cause the memory card to fillThe included 32GB Micro-SD card is acceptable. You should get ~3hrs of video+audio from the front-facing camera at 1080 resolution. If you plan to connect the rear-facing cam and step-down to 720, frankly, I'm not sure if this will allow for more time or less. (I don't know if this cam creates separate files, or split-screen files when using both simultaneously.) Either way, it's enough to capture an "event" should you need to. Just make sure to stop recording to avoid having the file overwritten.The Micro-SD to USB adapter worked quickly when attached to my PC. Accessing the files for playback was fast and easy. Just open them in your default video player application right from the Micro-SD card. No special or proprietary software is needed. The files created are in MOV format.Video quality during the day is great. Not as good as a high-quality lens, but very clear.Video quality at night is barely acceptable.- Flare from approaching lights is very noticeable- Reflecting street signs are so bad you can't read them until you are right next to them and they are lit by the edges of your headlights- Lighted signs are unreadable (too bright as the camera attempts to deal with both very dark and very bright objects in the same scene)- Only areas directly hit by your headlights are visible; light falloff is drastic outside of your headlight coverage- Overall low-light recording is extremely poor and grainyThere may be other dashcams available at this price point. Overall, I would say that this is worth the $40 I spent trying it out. Assuming I get the hard-wired kit for free, the "all-in" price of $40 will be a little sweeter when this has a much cleaner installation. It's very nice that under "normal" installation, this product includes everything you need to use it, so there's nothing else to buy. (Cables, mount, Micro-SD card, SD reader.) But, if you do a lot of night driving, and high-quality night video is important to you, then I would consider looking at a more expensive dashcam.I'll update this review if anything changes over time.